360FASHION FOR MEN: SUITalks By NOBLE IGWE

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They say that the most difficult sentence in any article is usually the first; I started with this quote just because I didn’t know what to start with.

My name is Noble Igwe, I love fashion and maybe I should go into a rehab. Back in high school, my economics teacher told us that the basic human needs are FOOD, SHELTER & CLOTHING, discovering clothes changed whatever impact the teaching was meant to have on me. I discovered clothes and my basic needs became CLOTHING and the others.

Today, we are talking SUITS as it concerns men.

Growing up I was meant to believe that we have 3 special days in our life – Our birthday, wedding day and burial day.

Over the past 20 something years, I have been to different weddings and I have reason to believe that some men go out of their way to ruin their wedding themselves. Some of these people do this unintentionally by wearing the wrong suit.  Trust me, wearing the wrong suit for your wedding is the same as a lady wearing a badly done lace front wig. For the rest of your life, you will have your wedding pictures to remind you of how silly you looked on this supposed special day.

I’m here to save the day, cut this page out and frame it. There are basic rules to suiting up. Go to your wardrobe, pack all your “coats” and burn them.

SUITalks: Here are classic examples of trash worthy suits - Even PDiddy was once upon a time a culprit but Money does make the world go around.
SUITalks: In this case opposites most certainly don't attract - Big suit on a slim guy and small suit on a fairly big guy.

The first and most important aspect of suiting is the FIT. Your suit should be simple and streamlined to suit your figure. There’s no funnier picture than that of a big guy wearing an under sized suit or the small bodied dude dressed in an oversize suit. Your suit should look crafted but not like the work of a carpenter.

SUITalks: Mr Ozwald Boateng in a well CRAFTED suit.
SUITalks: Another example of a well CRAFTED suit from A. Sauvage (2010 collection).

Now, let’s go into the different parts that certifies your suit to remain in your wardrobe.

THE SHOULDER

A well-tailored suit should hug the body with no over lapping on the shoulder.

SUITalks: What your suit should look like on your shoulder (Picture: Ozawald Boateng)

A suit with some inches slouching off the shoulder gives you the look of a small bird getting ready to fly. Once the shoulder is a bit tight or moving outwards everything about the suit falls apart.

SUITalks: Notice the deflection going on here, you never want that to happen to you. Never a good look.

THE SLEEVE
The length and width of your sleeves are very important whether you are buying it ready-made or getting it made for you. When the width of the suit is big, it makes the entire length of your hand swim in the suit and in a windy environment you will look like a standing balloon.

The width of your sleeve should be slim but wide enough to allow free movement of your shoulder and elbow while the length should stop just above the hinges of your wrist.

SUITalks: You can have single button on your cuffs for the minimalist look or four buttons for the traditional look, it all depends on your personal preference. (Picture: Reissonline.com)

The sleeve is not a glove, so there will be no need to make it stop at your knuckles.

THE SIDES.
A badly fitted suit jacket is the suit that looks like a maternity gown on the owner.

Your suit should be fitted at the sides to project your frame buttoned or unbuttoned. If it fails to enhance your body frame, there’s no difference between the jacket and a gown.

SUITalks: An Ozwald Boateng suit, notice how the sides of the suit flows with the body of the model.
SUITalks: Ebuka Obi-Uchendu in a well-tailored suit.
SUITalks: Kanye is also one person who never fails when it comes to his suits.

THE LAPEL
Different people prefer different types of lapels but I have seen wedding suits with cheap big and shiny lapels. Why people choose to do such to themselves, I cannot say but if you must go for a shiny lapel, do not stand near a mirror. You will only reflect light.

SUITalks: Different lapels for different folks and it also depends on what occasion you'll be wearing for. A slim lapel is perfect for everyday suits,. Peaked lapel is for those who are more daring and also suits you wear on special occasions. (Picture: Reissonline.com)

The lapel brings out the suit’s character and I would recommend slim lapels to avoid your jacket looking like it has ears. A two inch lapel should do just great.

THE BUTTON
I may be a little partial as regards the number of buttons because I’m a stickler for one button suits but then I also see no reason why someone would walk about with four buttons on one suit jacket when you are not Kanayo O Kanayo.

SUITalks: One button or two buttons, personal preference and what works best with your body.(Picture: Reissonline.com)

While casual suits should have between one to two buttons, business suits should have two buttons unless you work for 360NoBS.com where we are advised to live life the one button way.

THE VENT
Before we even discuss the vent, please always remember to take out the thread holding the vent before use. I’ve seen people going about their business with ends of their vent/s still attached together.

SUITalks: Single vent, double vents - the choice is yours(Picture: Reissonline.com)

Moving on, you can either go for a single(centre) vent  or  one with double (side) vents. While the centre vents give you a slimmer look, you can never go wrong either with a side vented fitted jacket.

THE TROUSER/PANT
A lot of people still go with the slim jacket and baggy trouser while we are still trying to understand why people do that, can I say that a slim/fitted jacket MUST ALWAYS go with fitted/slim trousers.

A fitted jacket on a big pair of trousers makes you look like a Volkswagen beetle running on extra large tyres.

The width of your trouser should be fitted /slim while giving room for the free movement of your legs. The trouser length should touch your shoes while hitting the back but never going under them.

SUITalks: Flat fronts are the way to go. For the waist, adjustable for a slimmer look and belted if the beer belly is an obstruction.(Picture: Reissonline.com)
SUITalks: The length of your trousers/pants should always rest on your shoes not below them - either cuffed or uncuffed.(Picture: Reissonline.com)

Some people prefer to cuff their pants while some prefer it not cuffed, but for lighter fabrics, I would advice cuffing as it would give it strength and balance.

SUITalks: David Beckham - always well suited.
SUITalks: The suitman, Mr Ozwald Boateng. Even as he is seated, he looks comfortable not looking like he is about to explode.

Sigh! I hope I didn’t bore you on this first encounter. Now go out there and get a power suit for that wedding, job interview, event or to just hang out with the boys and girls. I prefer bespoke suits to the “off the rack” kind, so if you want a good tailored suit in Nigeria, I’ll recommend Mai Atafo.

SUITalks: MAI ATAFO SUITS. A mix of 2010's collections and 2012 as showcased at the Arise Magazine Fashion Week.
SUITalks: A GUIDE

Peace out!

Noble Igwe

Noble Igwe

Nobs is a SLU…shh trust fund kid who works just to exercise his body and mind.
He’s “Unruly” but as calm as the “ABE” boys.
Referred to as FYI (Fly, Young and Igbo) by his friends, Nobs says iT tHe wAy iT iS.

Follow him on Twitter @nobsdaslushhkid

Enough of the English language……..My name is Noble Igwe,go figure!

4 comments

  1. Noble you tried (for once)
    Not sure if you got your advice fro gq though 😉
    Anywho, taller men tend to wear four button and three button suits, and i think it suits them better than other types.
    It probably baffles you because you’re not particularly tall…
    Well done

    ps i think johnny depp pulls of the double breasted quite well but i guess it could be fitted a bit better

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