They say that the most difficult sentence in any article is usually the first; I started with this quote just because I didn’t know what to start with.
My name is Noble Igwe, I love fashion and maybe I should go into a rehab. Back in high school, my economics teacher told us that the basic human needs are FOOD, SHELTER & CLOTHING, discovering clothes changed whatever impact the teaching was meant to have on me. I discovered clothes and my basic needs became CLOTHING and the others.
Today, we are talking SUITS as it concerns men.
Growing up I was meant to believe that we have 3 special days in our life – Our birthday, wedding day and burial day.
Over the past 20 something years, I have been to different weddings and I have reason to believe that some men go out of their way to ruin their wedding themselves. Some of these people do this unintentionally by wearing the wrong suit. Trust me, wearing the wrong suit for your wedding is the same as a lady wearing a badly done lace front wig. For the rest of your life, you will have your wedding pictures to remind you of how silly you looked on this supposed special day.
I’m here to save the day, cut this page out and frame it. There are basic rules to suiting up. Go to your wardrobe, pack all your “coats” and burn them.
The first and most important aspect of suiting is the FIT. Your suit should be simple and streamlined to suit your figure. There’s no funnier picture than that of a big guy wearing an under sized suit or the small bodied dude dressed in an oversize suit. Your suit should look crafted but not like the work of a carpenter.
Now, let’s go into the different parts that certifies your suit to remain in your wardrobe.
A well-tailored suit should hug the body with no over lapping on the shoulder.
A suit with some inches slouching off the shoulder gives you the look of a small bird getting ready to fly. Once the shoulder is a bit tight or moving outwards everything about the suit falls apart.
The length and width of your sleeves are very important whether you are buying it ready-made or getting it made for you. When the width of the suit is big, it makes the entire length of your hand swim in the suit and in a windy environment you will look like a standing balloon.
The width of your sleeve should be slim but wide enough to allow free movement of your shoulder and elbow while the length should stop just above the hinges of your wrist.
The sleeve is not a glove, so there will be no need to make it stop at your knuckles.
A badly fitted suit jacket is the suit that looks like a maternity gown on the owner.
Your suit should be fitted at the sides to project your frame buttoned or unbuttoned. If it fails to enhance your body frame, there’s no difference between the jacket and a gown.
Different people prefer different types of lapels but I have seen wedding suits with cheap big and shiny lapels. Why people choose to do such to themselves, I cannot say but if you must go for a shiny lapel, do not stand near a mirror. You will only reflect light.
The lapel brings out the suit’s character and I would recommend slim lapels to avoid your jacket looking like it has ears. A two inch lapel should do just great.
I may be a little partial as regards the number of buttons because I’m a stickler for one button suits but then I also see no reason why someone would walk about with four buttons on one suit jacket when you are not Kanayo O Kanayo.
While casual suits should have between one to two buttons, business suits should have two buttons unless you work for 360NoBS.com where we are advised to live life the one button way.
Before we even discuss the vent, please always remember to take out the thread holding the vent before use. I’ve seen people going about their business with ends of their vent/s still attached together.
Moving on, you can either go for a single(centre) vent or one with double (side) vents. While the centre vents give you a slimmer look, you can never go wrong either with a side vented fitted jacket.
A lot of people still go with the slim jacket and baggy trouser while we are still trying to understand why people do that, can I say that a slim/fitted jacket MUST ALWAYS go with fitted/slim trousers.
A fitted jacket on a big pair of trousers makes you look like a Volkswagen beetle running on extra large tyres.
The width of your trouser should be fitted /slim while giving room for the free movement of your legs. The trouser length should touch your shoes while hitting the back but never going under them.
Some people prefer to cuff their pants while some prefer it not cuffed, but for lighter fabrics, I would advice cuffing as it would give it strength and balance.
Sigh! I hope I didn’t bore you on this first encounter. Now go out there and get a power suit for that wedding, job interview, event or to just hang out with the boys and girls. I prefer bespoke suits to the “off the rack” kind, so if you want a good tailored suit in Nigeria, I’ll recommend Mai Atafo.